CUBA 2006
Our accommodations were casa particular or bed and breakfast, and we stayed in Havana, Trinidad and Viñales. People were curious and open despite living in a dictatorship and under a tough US-embargo. I noticed many buildings having a picturesque decay, and that you can listen to live salsa music everywhere.
A Photographic approach to Havana, Trinidad, and Viñales
Cuba speaks to many kinds of photographers – from the vibrant street life in Havana to the breathtaking landscapes of Viñales. We opted for casa particular accommodations—local bed and breakfasts—allowing us to connect with the culture and people.
Havana, the capital city, became our first canvas. As we wandered through its colorful streets, we were struck by the picturesque charm that emanated from the architecture. The buildings were worn but had patina and displayed a beautiful decay. Photographers find inspiration in these contrasts—the vibrancy of life against the backdrop of crumbling facades.
Two things were very characteristic, but they also apply to other places in Cuba. Cubans love music. As soon as an orchestra starts playing Latin rhythms or the sound comes from a loudspeaker, they can’t keep their bodies still. They dance and sing along. The smiles, the laughter, and even the moments of contemplation could all be found through my lens. The second thing is the old American cars, dating back to before Fidel Castro. Cuba’s car fleet was extremely old, but it has also become a kind of trademark or even an attraction with the old cars. I found that engaging with the locals before snapping photos often led to more authentic moments, resulting in stunning portraits that captured their spirit.
The people of Havana are curious and open. Their resilience is evident not just in their conversations, but also in their expressive faces, which have been shaped by both joy and hardship. My wife was robbed in the street. I was walking a few meters in front of my wife and suddenly someone shouted at me. I turned around and saw a man pulling her necklace and camera strap. He ran away with the necklace. The camera strap contained a wire that he couldn’t tear. I ran after him while shouting, but he was too fast. The police came quickly, we described his clothing, and we came to the station. It turned out that they had gone out into the streets and alleys and detained 5-6 people who matched the description. We weren’t sure and didn’t point at anyone, and when we left the station, we passed right by where they were sitting. One of them ducked his head and looked away. Later we were told that if we had pointed out to someone, it could have been life sentence to him. It’s a good thing we didn’t.
Venturing beyond the capital, we traveled to Trinidad, another gem of Cuba. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is characterized by its cobblestone streets and colonial architecture and color explosion in the walls. Capturing the essence of Trinidad was about embracing the light and color. Here, too, live salsa music filled the air, drawing locals and visitors alike to the vibrant plazas. The rhythm of the music was infectious, providing an excellent backdrop for candid shots of people dancing and enjoying their evening.
My journey continued to Viñales, a region known for its lush tobacco fields and stunning limestone mogotes. The natural landscapes created ample opportunity for landscape photography. This area felt peaceful and untouched, providing a contrast to the streets of Havana and Trinidad. We had a funny episode in Vinales. We wanted to go to a restaurant and eat one evening. The other evenings we ate with the families we were staying with. There was a menu card on our table. We didn’t understand it all and waited for the waiter to come. We asked about the dishes and decided on one, to which the waiter replied that they didn’t have it. We decided on something else, and they didn’t have it either. We then asked what they had, and the answer was chicken. At least it looks good to have a menu card.
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